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Nissin Info


A customer took advantage of my previous offer of Nissin brake and clutch master cylinders at my cost to the first taker. Below is his account of how it went. Note that Cycleworks now offers a complete kit for the brake master cylinder.

All of the text (and the sketch) below is from Vito vduc@mci2000.com:


Here is a breakdown of what needs to be done to install both the Nissin brake and clutch master cylinder assemblies.

Brake:

Parts you will need to purchase:

  1. 10mm x 1.25 pitch x 16mm bolt
  2. 10 mm washer (optional, some people don't like having a hex bolt riding directly on the mating surface)
  3. 10mm x 1.25 pitch banjo bolt

Assembly:

  1. Remove the stock brake master cylinder.
  2. Bolt the Nissin in place, using the supplied bolts. Only lightly tighten the bolts, that way you can adjust the position. When everything is positioned correctly and does not interfere at full lock with the gauges or gas tank then tighten.
  3. Use the 10mm x 1.25 pitch x 12mm long bolt and washer to attach the remote reservoir bracket supplied in kit to the master cylinder perch.
  4. Attach the remote reservoir to the bracket, bolt and nut included with kit.
  5. Adjust the reservoir location by bending the bracket down slightly to make the reservoir level.
  6. Use a double banjo bolt 10mm x 1.25 pitch (stock Honda and Yamaha size, Brembo uses 10mm x 1.00 pitch) and new crush washers to attach your existing brake lines (my are stainless steel Fren Tubo). The stock spacer used between the brake lines and crush washer will not be needed. Place a crush washer between the banjo, lines, and master cylinder for a total of 3.
  7. Torque down the banjo bolt, you may need to adjust the brake lines angle to clear the instrument cluster, be careful here or when at full steering lock the lines collide with the speedometer scratching it up.
  8. Bleed the system.

Clutch:

Parts you will need to purchase or fabricate:

  1. 10mm x 1.25 pitch x 16mm bolt
  2. 10 mm washer (optional)
  3. Bracket to hold the choke lever (see sketch below)
  4. 10mm x 1.25 pitch banjo bolt

Assembly:

  1. Remove the stock brake master cylinder.
  2. Bolt the Nissin in place, using the supplied bolts.
  3. You will need to fabricate a bracket to secure the choke lever to the master cylinder perch and handle bar. See below for sketch. You can reuse the 3mm bolts from the stock choke bracket to hold it to the new bracket.
  4. Use the 10mm x 1.25 pitch x 16mm long bolt and washer to attach the remote reservoir bracket supplied in the kit to the master cylinder perch. Depending on your bracket design it will go either above or below.
  5. Attach the remote reservoir to the bracket, bolt and nut included with kit.
  6. Adjust the reservoir locate by bending the bracket down slightly to make the reservoir level.
  7. Use a single banjo bolt 10mm x 1.25 pitch (stock Honda and Yamaha size, Brembo uses 10mm x 1.00 pitch) and new crush washers the attach your existing brake lines. Place a crush washer both sides of the banjo, and master cylinder for a total of 2.
  8. Torque down the banjo bolt, you may need to adjust the brake lines angle to clear the instrument cluster.

At the same time I installed a pair of EBC Pro-Lite road racing rotors with EBC Kevlar green pads and Vortex clip-ons. The rotors went on with no problems. The clip-ons were another story, a major headache. The problem being clearance with the brake and clutch lines to the gauge cluster. The solution was making a custom set of risers, to raise the bars up 2 inches. I also used the old spacer on the brake banjo to allow the clutch line to clear the risers. In summary the brake master cylinder in combination with the rotors were the best money spent on the bike. The brakes bleed real easy now and the brakes are truly two finger stoppers with no mushy feel. I did a racing school and one Heavyweight Twins race with this set-up and there is no comparison between this and stock. The clutch works fine, and seems to have stopped my intermittent lose of lever pressure, maybe my stock master cylinder was going away. My main reason for the clutch master cylinder was cosmetics. The adjustable levers are nice but I wish they would have started a little closer to the grips (I have small hands).

Thanks again.

Regards,
Vito




9 5 2000